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Most Greyhounds need to be actively trained to
coexist with a cat. Until this training is complete you'll have
to keep your cat and Greyhound separated. The
training can take a day or two or it can take weeks, depending how "keen" your
dog is to chase and how good you are at training! Some dogs are
so keen they're best left to another, cat-free, home, while at the other
extreme some are just not inclined to chase and hardly need any training
at all. If you live on your own you probably need one of these non-chasers
because the training needs two people.
There are two parts to the process - make sure you fully complete Part
1 before you get into Part 2, otherwise Part 2 won't work. And if it
doesn't work, don't be tempted to keep your Greyhound living separately
from
your
cat
for
the
longer
term. Eventually the worst will happen and everybody, including
your Greyhound, will suffer. Go back to your rehoming organisation and
get more help or a more suitable dog.
Generally, make quite sure you fully achieve each step
before moving on to the next, otherwise you can easily
make your dog more keen
to chase your cat! And don't make the mistake of praising your dog while
he's looking at your cat just because he's not pulling towards her -
he's still thinking "I'd quite like to chase that cat" and
that's what he'll think your praise is about!
The two parts are: 1. Teaching your Greyhound the general command "NO". This
means "whatever you're doing, or even thinking about
doing, stop it and look at me!". As with all doggy commands,
you should try not to use it to mean anything else (like No you can't
go
for a
walk).
2. The introduction itself.
This is the procedure ...Part 1
Without the cat, teach the general command NO
- Place a meaty dog biscuit (for example) on the floor in a separate
room to your dog (or outside). You need enough space to walk
to and fro past it.
- Put your dog on the lead, with his collar properly fitted (right
at the top of the neck by the head, buckle uppermost, and tight enough
so that only two fingers will fit inside) and walk him casually towards
the
dog
biscuit
on
a two-foot lead, so he can see it but cannot reach it.
- As he looks at the dog biscuit, say "NO" firmly (but
not aggressively). Don't delay the command until he lunges, say it
as soon as he looks. If after your command
he stops looking at the dog biscuit and looks at you, then
praise him. Repeat several times so you are sure he understands. If
your verbal command alone is not enough to divert his gaze from the
food to yourself, then walk him past the dog biscuit again and this
time say "NO" and check his collar by quickly tugging with
the lead. As your dog feels the tug on his collar he will turn to
see where it came from. At this point you have broken his train of
thought from the dog biscuit towards yourself, and this is the time
you must praise him. He will briefly enjoy
the praise and then return to the more interesting sight of the food
again! As soon as his gaze starts to go back to the food repeat the
NO command and then praise when he looks at you again.
- It is imperative that your dog looks away from the
food and at you as soon as you say NO and check
him. If it takes many attempts you are not asserting yourself
strongly enough, and your dog is gaining control of the situation
- knowing you don’t really mean business! It is also imperative
that praise is given when your dog
looks away from the food - he needs to learn the difference between
right and wrong in his new ‘no chase’ world.
- Once you are confident your dog really does understand the word
NO, test and train him with other distractions i.e. balls, running
children, the open rubbish bin etc so he learns that NO means ‘stop
what you are doing at look at me’. After a few attempts you
should not have to check your dog, the word alone should be enough.
Soon your dog will anticipate what is going
to happen as soon as he sees the distraction and will look
straight at you for his praise without you even needing
to issue the command - thus the lesson has really been learned -
he has realised how to get praise by being good! Most dogs
learn this command in a matter of minutes, however he will need repetitive
reinforcement by you over the coming days to enable him to remember
the command.
Now, if you've REALLY trained the NO command in part 1, you can start
the cat introduction.... Part 2. Set
it up like this:
- Have a helper who knows the cat and can hold it safely. Have
them take up station upstairs or in a closed room.
- Put your Greyhound on the lead and muzzle him, then settle with
him in the empty living room.
- Have your helper come in without the cat,
greet the dog, get sniffed and then sit down somewhere. Repeat
this without the greeting until your dog loses interest in your helper
coming into the room.
- Then have the helper go out and come back in holding
the cat. Make sure the cat can't escape and
identify herself as running prey to your dog, also that your
cat is held firmly enough so that she doesn't bother struggling
to escape.
- As your dog looks at the cat, you say "No" so
that he stops looking at it and looks at you. Praise him
as usual, but only while he's looking at you. Do Not praise him while
he's looking at your cat, or he'll take that as encouragement for
what's in his mind at the time (which is probably completely predatory!).
If need be jerk the lead to make him stop looking at your cat.
At this point you have a choice of technique, depending on the situation
and how your cat is coping. Either...
Repeat the entry until your Greyhound has learned
not to look at your cat, and the cat has got used to the dog enough
so that when your helper lets go of her, she won't immediately run.
Depending on your dog's nature and how thoroughly you did the "No" training,
this stage may take an hour, a few days, or even longer.
OR
Keep your Greyhound and cat in the room until your
Greyhound loses interest in your cat. You have to prevent your dog
looking at your cat throughout the session, so end each session while
you're winning.
- Once the situation is calm you can let your cat free, and then
train your dog to ignore the moving cat.
- Once you have both animals relaxed in the same room and ignoring
each other, you can take the lead off your dog, but leave
the muzzle on.
Now the dog and the cat tend to go through a period of ignoring each
other, to the extent of passing each other in a narrow passage as if
the other was not there! The next stage is touching noses and becoming
friends, although sometimes they just continue to ignore each other.
Tricky customers: some dogs learn faster with additional
reinforcements. If your dog does not respond to the training
then fill a water spray bottle, and put a few nails in a tin can and
tape
up the top. As you issue the command NO spray his rump with water or
throw the shaky tin to the ground between him and the cat (try not
to scare the cat). Usually the unpleasant wet sensation of the water,
or the noisy sound of the tin is enough to distract him from the cat
and switch his gaze to you.
The first few days
Don't take chances in the early stages - if you go out don't
leave your dog and cat in the same room. Don't
force them to be together, if your cat is struggling to get
out of a tight hold this will make your dog more anxious; try
to make meetings as natural as possible. A hiss or swipe from
your cat is acceptable, but never allow your cat to attack
your dog as it is likely to make his behaviour worse rather
than better. Also don't forget his eyes are vulnerable. Never
feed the two together, and don't let him eat your cat’s
food! Also bear in mind that your dog and your own cat
may become great friends, but he may need more supervision
with other people's cats.
Make sure that your cat has a place to escape.
If necessary, put a baby gate at the bottom of the stairs, mounted
a bit higher than normal so that your cat can get through but your
Greyhound can't.
Even when you have a dog who apparently shows no interest in cats, you
should be aware that it is possible, even if your dog eats and sleeps with
the cat, that if your cat runs or comes charging through the cat flap,
your dog may chase it. Not having cat flaps avoids the situation, and when
letting your dog into your garden, alert any cats in the garden and allow
them time to leave before letting your dog free. Even if he's cat-friendly
he'll see the garden as his territory and may not accept another predator
in it.
It's probably true that any Greyhound can be trained to coexist
with cats - eventually! However if you have a dog who is very keen
to chase it may take so long that it will be better to start with
a different Greyhound, with a more suitable basic temperament.
If this is the situation you're in, bite the bullet quickly as
your attachment to your unsuitable Greyhound will only grow.
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